CAMILLA FRANKS GUIDE TO DINING IN PORTUGAL
Anyone that knows me will tell you I love food. I can’t deny it. One of the many, many reasons I enjoy travelling is that it awakens all your senses, and I never forget that one of those is taste. I am so passionate about eating, drinking, cooking, experiencing new flavours and, of course, friends and family gathering together for a meal. Actually, if I ever consider a career change, I might make a great chef.
The Portuguese are queens and kings of the culinary scene. Fancy the delicious simplicity of chargrilled sardines scattered with rock salt and drizzled with fresh lemon? Or feasting on a heartwarming, flavoursome stew from grandmother’s table? Crack lobster shells while overlooking the ocean. Relish succulent chicken marinated masterfully in paprika and peppers. Cinnamon sprinkled pastries and caramelised tarts are magnetically moreish. Pop the espumante and pass me the menu.
During my time in Portugal, my palate and my soul sang with joy over so many experiences that I couldn’t wait to get home and share the sensations with you all. So, please read on and raise a glass to the tantalising, unforgettable and appetising adventures that await on this beautiful peninsula.
Decadent Dining
Palácio Chiado
Lisbon
Once upon a time this was a 19th century palace. Now it is a breathtakingly opulent restaurant dedicated to its Bohemian backstory and the culinary pleasures of life. Experience complete gastronomical indulgence, maybe under the golden griffin that is suspended over the dining space. Did they know we were coming? Where do I get one for my bedroom? Anyway, back to the food…
WHAT TO TRY:
- Codfish ‘Lisbon to Braga’ served with a parsley and olive tapenade
- Beef Loin À Barão – served traditionally with egg, ham and Portuguese sauce
- Seitan Carbonara – fettuccini, asparagus & winter truffle
The Majestic Café
Porto
From the façade to the interior to the menu this iconic restaurant had me in absolute awe and inspired my prints Meet Me At The Majestic, Majestic Milla and Ornate On A Plate. Dining and drama merge magically here. Elegant waiters glide under ornate gilded ceilings, cornices and frescoes, serving the likes of presidents, locals, tourists and writers.
WHAT TO TRY:
- Francesinha – not for those with small appetites or vegetarians, this Portuguese sandwich is full of meats, cheese and covered in a beer and tomato sauce.
- Codfish “João do Porto Style”, flavoured in extra virgin olive oil of first cold pressing.
- Duck Magret perfumed with Port wine Majestic Tawny 10 Years.
The Yeatman
Porto
A luxury wine hotel and spa with a two Michelin starred restaurant? RSVP ‘Yes please’ from me. Step into the main restaurant and gaze in wonder at its unparalleled, panoramic view of Porto. Factor in that you may momentarily be too distracted to order.
A luxury wine hotel and spa with a two Michelin starred restaurant? RSVP ‘Yes please’ from me. Step into the main restaurant and gaze in wonder at its unparalleled, panoramic view of Porto. Factor in that you may momentarily be too distracted to order.
WHAT TO TRY:
- The ‘An Evolution Of Aromas’ tasting menu
- Ask the sommelier to try something from their Portuguese wine collection
Pica-Pau
Lisbon
This is a culinary term that means woodpecker. The idea with a pica pau meal is that you peck at an array of different bits and pieces on the plate like the bird might. This restaurant has taken on the name and the owners are dedicated to serving all the traditional recipes that appeared on their grandmother’s table.
WHAT TO TRY:
- Traditional Portuguese stew
- Rooster Cabidela
- Stewed gizzards (for the brave)
Clube de Fado
Lisbon
This sublime restaurant is also a Fado venue, a musical genre created in Lisbon that I talk about in our feature on Lisbon here. While enjoying the artists, you will also love the traditional menu served up here with gusto.
WHAT TO TRY:
- Octopus lagareiro – this word refers to the mill workers who press olive oil, which is applied liberally to this dish.
- Pork steaks and prawns from the cataplana – a piece of Portuguese cookware created especially for sizzling
Share Plates
Chez Maurice
Porto
Being born and bred around Bondi, I will always agree to a beachside cocktail and Chez Maurice reminded me of home. I love the seafront locale, the people watching and petiscos – which is Portuguese tapas.
WHAT TO TRY:
- Petiscos aplenty
- Mojitos
- The enormous iced coffee
Povo
Lisbon
Lisbon
This brilliant music venue-come-restaurant fuses the charm of Portuguese taverns with a contemporary bar vibe. Povo means ‘people’ so while hearty main dishes are there to be devoured, the menu focuses mostly on sharing. It’s the perfect place to gather a group, bring your bestie, or make new friends over plates and serving boards piled high with all kinds of eclectic options.
WHAT TO TRY:
- Farinheira (seasoned sausage) and breadcrumbs with fried eggs
- Or for the veggies, ‘Migas’ meaning ‘crumbs’, cornbread with cabbage crumbs
Lupita
Lisbon
When you consider the amount of pizza places around the globe, it’s astounding to be in the top 50, like Lupita. Order one of their experimental combinations with quirky names or a delicious original – they’re all spectacular. They even have some pampered pet dogs as dedicated clients.
When you consider the amount of pizza places around the globe, it’s astounding to be in the top 50, like Lupita. Order one of their experimental combinations with quirky names or a delicious original – they’re all spectacular. They even have some pampered pet dogs as dedicated clients.
WHAT TO TRY:
- Pizza with vodka sauce
- The Street Corn pizza
Cocktails And Mocktails
The Salla bar
The Salla bar
Lisbon
This sumptuous space was where the Portuguese aristocracy once played and is housed within the aforementioned Palácio Chiado. It's perfect for some civilised sipping or you can stay late for the DJ and “Farrobodo”, or “wild partying”, a Portuguese word that is rumoured to have originated here, centuries ago.
This sumptuous space was where the Portuguese aristocracy once played and is housed within the aforementioned Palácio Chiado. It's perfect for some civilised sipping or you can stay late for the DJ and “Farrobodo”, or “wild partying”, a Portuguese word that is rumoured to have originated here, centuries ago.
WHAT TO TRY:
- The Portuguese cheese platter
- The El Sol Y El Porto cocktail
- The Freedom mocktail
Pavilhão Chinês
Lisbon
Ring the bell out front to gain entry into this quirky establishment. In 1901, it was a grocery store. Now, it’s lively cocktail venue where kitsch pieces and objets d’art are punctuated by pool tables. A night of curiosities is guaranteed and the dress code is one of my all-time favourites: anything goes. It was created for the Portuguese painter Luís Pinto Coelho to exhibit his private collection of relics from WW2, so his figurines, helmets and memorabilia now have a home.
Ring the bell out front to gain entry into this quirky establishment. In 1901, it was a grocery store. Now, it’s lively cocktail venue where kitsch pieces and objets d’art are punctuated by pool tables. A night of curiosities is guaranteed and the dress code is one of my all-time favourites: anything goes. It was created for the Portuguese painter Luís Pinto Coelho to exhibit his private collection of relics from WW2, so his figurines, helmets and memorabilia now have a home.
WHAT TO TRY:
- The Magic Star cocktail
- Anything from the vast menu. The mixologists will take care of you.
Sweet Symphony
Patéis de Belém
Patéis de Belém
Lisbon
Portuguese tarts are beloved worldwide but it was about time for me to enjoy one (OK, several) on home ground. They were originally created 300 years ago by monks in the Jerónomis Monastery, or in a shop in Belém established in 1937, depending on which story you believe. Does it really matter when they taste so good?
WHAT TO TRY:
- Patéis de Nata these differ slightly from what are called Portuguese tarts in other parts of the world. The custard is thicker and the outside caramelised and crunchy.
Pastelaria Alcôa
Lisbon
Delicious bakeries and patisseries line main streets and winding roads all throughout the country, but I was still overwhelmed by this place. It’s like a grown up version of being a kid in a candy store and next level if you want to experience all the traditional treats.
WHAT TO TRY:
- Queijada, which are like miniature cheesecakes
- Anything else you can fit in or take away
UAO
Lisbon
Gravitate to UAO by Mu. The gelato here is actually made in Italy but big in Portugal, and amazingly, is also vegan, sugar-free, gluten-free, lactose-free - and utterly delicious. It’s adored by everyone but it’s especially great for those with food allergies or intolerances. Find it on a bustling street corner in Principe Real.
WHAT TO TRY:
- Macadamia and cookie crumble gelato
- Dark chocolate gelato
- Espresso gelato
Feast On The Street
Sardine Festival
Lisbon… but celebrated all over
Sardine Festival
Lisbon… but celebrated all over
Being a Pisces and a lifelong fan of a street parties, I have to recommend this. These salty fishies are a Portuguese staple and each June, Lisbon virtually closes for a month to honour the patron saint, St Anthony, and serve up these tasty little morsels. The streets teem with colour and fun from singing to grilling, dancing to drinking. Naturally, all that colour, and the cute, kitsch sardine cans sparked my creativity, and feature on some of the most distinctive designs in the Rua do Universo collection.
A Recipe For Happiness
A journey always holds many surprises along the way and my trip through Portugal was no different. It is a nation brimming with gourmet delights, homegrown culinary treasures, feasting, fine dining, street food and much, much more.
A journey always holds many surprises along the way and my trip through Portugal was no different. It is a nation brimming with gourmet delights, homegrown culinary treasures, feasting, fine dining, street food and much, much more.
Thank you, Portugal, for inspiring me beyond measure. You filled my soul, my spirit… and my stomach.
