This same sense of deep warmth, care and intention infuses everything in Istanbul. The city has a rich visual language of artistry and craftsmanship, which calls to my creative heart. Visiting felt like coming home.

 

Now, I invite you to follow in my footsteps on this odyssey through bustling bazaars and Ottoman era palaces… to uncover an Anatolian dreamland of enchanting embroidery, intricate architecture and historic textiles.

This luxury hotel group has an iconic reputation but the Four Seasons in Istanbul’s old town, Sultanahmet, has a particularly fascinating back story. With its sunny yellow façade and courtyard full of blooms and birdsong, you would never suspect it was once a prison for tormented artists. Criminal poets, writers, painters and sculptors were detained there centuries ago while awaiting trial at the neighbouring courthouse. Stories say the scribbles of former inmates can still be discovered in the nooks and crannies of the hotel.

Inspiration surged through me as I entered this once royal residence, where sultans from the Ottoman era, their harems and children lived for over 400 years. The Palace’s opulent chambers and ceremonial rooms, bedecked in intricate tiling and inscriptions to the divine, housed the rulers of Türkiye, concubines and courtiers from the 15th till the 19th century. Now, if only these tiles could talk.

 

 

As I wandered across the road from the Four Seasons, I came upon the Turkish Art Rug store, a huge family-run emporium. I immediately fell in love with their carpets but happily settled in for the conventional bartering and apple tea drinking. After hours of joyful conversation, toing and froing, the proprietor and I agreed to flip a coin to determine a price. The coin landed in my favour and I walked out with a glorious collection. I’ve since had that lucky coin made into a necklace.

 

Sip on an aromatic Turkish coffee served in captivating ceramics in this characterful spot. Take a cosy seat inside and enjoy the quirky, vintage ambience.

Balat Mh. Çimen Sk. No:8 

 

Karaköy Lokantasi

Authentic and upscale, this family-run business has a lunch menu enriched with traditional casseroles, then, at night it transforms into a buzzing tavern offering meze plates and raki – a brandy made from grapes and raisins popular in the Balkans.  

Kemankeş Mahallesi, Kemankeş Caddesi, No. 57 Karaköy, Beyoğlu

The Turkish create delectable street food that can nourish you during a day of exploring. It’s dining, for when you’re too inspired to sit down.

Simit

This could be described as a slimmer bagel. A delicious bread, often covered in poppy seeds, great for breakfast or brunch.

Popular across the globe, this is like a folded over pizza. All manner of luscious fillings, spices and cheese are enveloped in a thin dough and cooked to crispy perfection.

Spicy, cooked mussels served cold, stuffed with herbed rice and a zing of lemon juice. One half of the shell contains the mussel itself, while you use the other half of the shell as a spoon. Nature’s cutlery.

We are all familiar with the döner kebab, crafted from seasoned meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie, then rolled into flatbread with sauces. Here in Türkiye, they are especially flavoursome. The bread is rubbed on the roaster beforehand to soak up extra spices and the vegetables are exceptionally fresh.

 

A traditional drink made with yoghurt, water and salt. The perfect partner for spicy meats.

 

These decadent delights are made from layers of crêpe paper thin pastry stuffed with pistachios and soaked in sugar syrup. The Turkish coffee’s best friend or perfect conclusion to any meal.

 

Türkiye’s second largest city lured me into a unique and vibrant montage of textiles, rich cuisine, culture and craft. The charm, warmth and deep creativity of Istanbul is etched into my soul forever. For a moment in time, I felt woven within its fabric.
 
Görüşmek üzere, from Türkiye, with love.